Panerai - Ten Years Of Ideas (1997-2007)

Ten years ago, the then Vendôme Luxury Group (now Richemont SA), acquired the branch of Officine Panerai concerned with Watches, Compasses, Depth Gauges and Precision Optical Instruments.

In the 1930s, Officine Panerai was the official supplier of the sophisticated, the high precision devices to the Italian Navy. Amongst the multitude of ideas and instruments realized, a special range of watches was created specifically designed for use in extreme and highly risky conditions.

In 1993, these special and secret military watches have been made available to the general public in limited editions under the original brands Luminor and Mare Nostrum.

However, the true confirmation came exactly ten years ago with the international launch and success of the Officine Panerai brand.

Now, you've a golden chance in discovering the unique history of the brand at Pier 7, Central, Hong Kong
(from 30th Nov - 1st Dec 2007, 10 am - 6 pm)

Zenith, Movado, and Zenith/Movado

Strangely that nothing about the alliance was mentioned in the "History" sections of both Movado or Zenith websites. Movado and Zenith may regard the alliance as a "dark era" in both of their history.

Founded in Le Locle by Georges Favre-Bulle as "Fabrique des Billodes"
1881 Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Achille Ditesheim, initially under the name "A.I. Ditesheim," shortly afterwards, when Ditesheim's brothers Leopold and Isidor joined the company, renamed to "L.A.I. Ditesheim"
1906 After Leopold's twin brother Isaac has joined the company in the early 20th century, it is renamed to "Fabrique Movado, L.-A.-J. Ditesheim & frère" on October 11, 1906. "Movado" is the Esperanto word for "on the move"
The company becomes a stock company under the name "Fabrique des Montres Zenith"
1947 The signature "Museum" dial was given birth by the artist Nathan George Horwitt
1969 The "Mondia-Zenith-Movado" holding is founded.

Zenith's classic El Primero movement, the first integrated automatic chronograph, was born in the same year

1971 The American Zenith Radio Corporation, Chicago, IL, brought the "Zenith/Movado"; the identical name was a pure coincidence
1978 "Zenith/Movado" was bought by Paul Castella's "Dixi" group and came under Swiss ownership again. Condition: The watches must not be sold in the USA
1983 Movado was bought out by Gedalio Grinberg (Concord was being acquired by Gedalio since 1970). Movado's annual turnover was $ 4 million at this time. In 1987, it was $ 60 million!
1996 Gedalio's corporation became officially known as the "Movado Group Inc."
Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) acquired ZENITH Manufacture. Ebel was also acquired by the LVMH Group in the same year

Ebel was acquired by the Movado Group


Since its founding in 1881 by 19-year old entrepreneur Achille Ditesheim in the village of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Movado has achieved a legacy of design innovation, earning more than 100 patents and 200 international awards for artistry and innovation in watch design and time technology.

The Limited Edition Movado Museum 60 Skeleton Dot

The brand is celebrating the 60th anniversary of the iconic. It was the most famous movement Movado ever created. It was designed by artist Nathan George Horwitt in 1947 and was defined by a single dot at 12 o’clock, which symbolizes the sun at high noon. The dial of this watch reflects a purity of design unrivaled in the history of time-keeping. In 1962, the dial design was registered as a trademark.
  1. A mechanical hand-winding skeletonized ETA caliber 6498-2 movement
  2. 17 jewels
  3. A 60-hour power reserve
  4. The dial is the Black Museum with an opening at 6 o'clock displaying the Movado "M" chevron, straight "parallel" hands and flat dot at 12 o'clock
  5. The case is in 18kt white gold and measures 45mm
  6. Double sapphire crystals and a black alligator strap with an 18kt white gold buckle
  7. Movado is making 60 of these watches Museum dial.
Movado, meaning "always in motion" in the international language of Esperanto, is the hallmark of some of the most famous timepieces ever created:
  1. the 1912 Polyplan, its revolutionary, patented movement constructed on three planes to fit a case curved to follow the wrist...the WWI Soldier's Watch with its elegant, protective grill
  2. the 1927 Ermeto, a capsule-shaped pocket watch wound by the sliding motion of its case
  3. the innovative 1950's Kingmatic series of rotor-driven automatics
  4. the Movado Artist’s Series by luminaries of 20th Century art
  5. the Movado Museum Watch with its legendary dial.
Defined by a single dot at 12 representing the sun at high noon, the Museum Watch dial is regarded as an icon of Modernism. It was designed by Bauhaus-influenced artist Nathan George Horwitt in 1947. When Horwitt's dial was selected for the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art, New York, in 1960, it was the first watch dial ever awarded this distinction.

The name "Museum Watch" derives from this recognition.

What's more......

1969 • ZENITH became a member of the MONDIA-ZENITH-MOVADO holding company.

1971 • The American ZENITH RADIO CORPORATION took a majority stake in the MONDIA-ZENITH-MOVADO group.

1978 • ZENITH returned to the hands of Swiss investors, with DIXI, the financial and mechanical constructions group, as major shareholder.

1984 • MOVADO taken over by NORTH AMERICAN WATCH Co

2000 • ZENITH taken over by L.V.M.H group.

World of Seiko

Believe or not. We are immersed in the World of Seiko!

Independent Seiko "Sub-Company"

J. Springs

Seiko Model Line
Grand Seiko
King Seiko
Seiko 5
Spring Drive

Alba Model Line

Seiko Collaborations

Anna Sui

Swiss Watch Export 2006

Exports of finished watches
Finished watches accounted for over 90% of export value, showing sustained growth above the sector's average. At 12.7 thousand million francs, the increase was 11.6%. This was achieved by exporting 24.9 million wristwatches - 500,000 more than in 2005 - for a rise of 2.1%. The number of pieces exported has stabilised around 25 million since 2003, following a drop during the previous ten years.

Mechanical and electronic watches

2006 was a particularly good year for mechanical watches, with their value increasing by 17.0% and their number by 11.6%. Once again, they gained market share, accounting for almost two thirds of the total value for only 15.1% of units sold. Electronic timepieces, however, recorded more modest growth. Their overall value exceeded the 2005 level by 2.5%, while the number of pieces remained more or less stable at +0.5%.



Orient Watch was formally established in July 13th, 1950 in Tokyo. However, the history of Orient Watch really dates back to 1901, when Shogoro Yoshida, the founder of Orient, opened a wholesale watch store in Ueno, Japan. Orient Watch has always focused on mechanical watches, primarily automatic watches with its own in-house automatic movements.

Orient Star, Ref.: WZ0091ER

Orient was once part of the "Big Three" watch companies in Japan along with Citizen and Seiko. In the 70s, when mechanical watch companies faced hardship from the mass introduction of inexpensive quartz watches, Citizen and Seiko took the path of mass producing quartz watches, Orient stuck with what it did best, making mechanical watches. Today, Seiko owns a controlling stake (52%) in Orient.

Orient, however, continues to make its own mechanical movements. Unlike Citizen, Orient does not sell their movements for OEM production. For its quartz models, it uses Seiko's quartz movements.

What sets Orient apart from other watch companies is really the fact that Orient has always been focusing on making its mechanical movements better and more reliable. It is unusual today to find a watch company that makes its own movement selling watches at prices offered by Orient.

Most of the watch companies that do make in-house movements are big name specialized watch companies such as Patek Philippe whose watches ranges from tens of thousands of dollars to hundreds of thousands of dollars.

To find a specialized watch company that uses in-house movements selling its watches at prices that are affordable to most people is truly refreshing.

As of 2006, Orient Watch has the largest Japanese mechanical movement production exceeding Seiko's and Citizens combined production figures. Through large scale production, the value offered by their watches are considered one of the best in the industry. Orient Star and Orient Star Royal are the middle and high-end brands, with the Royal Orient being their flagship line.

My First Orient Watch, Ref.: TH EM6A AOO

Dimensions - Case Diameter ( 39 mm
Lug to Lug: 45
Height: 13
Lug Width: 20
Bracelet Tapered: 20mm
Weight: 100 gram
Max Wrist Size: 7.5"
Crown Type: Not Screw Down
Crystal Material: Mineral (Dome shape)
Water Resistance: 50m
Specialties: Titanium, Solid Links, Big Date Window at 6
Richemont announced the Group has concluded an agreement with the well-known Geneva watch company, Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA.

The transaction involved the purchase of the production facility of Roger Dubuis. The facility currently manufactures movement kits for Roger Dubuis’ Poinçon de Genève watch movements, which Richemont will continue to supply to Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA, under the terms of a long-term agreement.

Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA, which was founded in 1995 and is managed by Mr Carlos Dias, will continue to operate as an independent manufacturer and distributor under the ‘Roger Dubuis’ brand. In addition to the supply agreement, Richemont will distribute Roger Dubuis watches in some key markets, including the USA and the Middle East.

In order to cope with the increased demand of components for high end watch movements, not only for Roger Dubuis but also for Richemont’s own Maisons, the Group hopes, over time, to extend the production capacity at the Meyrin facility in Geneva. Some 200 employees will be transferred to the Group and the number is expected to grow, as the business develops.

Source: Richemont

Yachtstyle Presents

Simple Watch. Simple?

Even the simplest mechanical wrist watch is comprised of a surprising number of parts, and none of the part are superfluous. I think it would be interesting to have a look on the inventory of the parts in a simple, but high-graded wrist watch.

The AP calibre 2120 is a 28 millimeter round, and 2.45 millimeter thick automatic winding movement with hours and minutes display. It utilizes 36 jewels, and runs at 19,800 beats per hour.

The parts comprising the watch are (1) the winding rotor; (2) rotor retention clip; (3) rotor bearing; (4) rotor bearing retention ring; (5) rotor support ring; (6, 7, 8, 9) rotor rim screws; (10) 21K rotor rim; (11) mainspring barrel bridge; (12) barrel bushing; (13) ball-bearing winding transfer gear outer race; (14) ball-bearing winding transfer gear inner race; (15) retention screw; (16) ball bearings (O.K. there are six!); (17) switching rocker upper jewel; (18) barrel click upper jewel; (19) reduction wheel upper jewel; (20) hand wind-disconnect wheel upper jewel... ...

In fact, the whole calibre consists of 169 parts in total.
Simple Watch. Simple? For full illustration, please take a look at the original article by Walt Odets
Related Posts with Thumbnails


Design by Design Disease for Smashing Magazine | Blogger Templates by Blog and Web

If any of the above site photos is inadvertently infringing your copyright, please leave your comment at the respective post entry.

I will delete the respective photos within three working days.